Australia’s wildlife is spectacular and diverse. Kangaroos, koalas, wombats, cassowaries, platypus, endless bird species, and marine life. But photographing wild animals requires different skills than other photography.

I’ve spent years photographing Australian wildlife, from backyard birds to Tasmanian devils to whale sharks at Ningaloo. Here’s what I’ve learned about getting good results while respecting the animals.

Equipment Considerations

Focal length matters enormously. You can’t get close to wild animals, so you need reach. A 70-200mm lens is minimum. Better is 100-400mm, 150-600mm, or 200-600mm for serious wildlife work.

Teleconverters extend your reach at the cost of light and some sharpness. A 1.4x teleconverter on a 300mm lens gives you 420mm. Useful but with trade-offs.

Fast autofocus is critical. Animals move unpredictably. Your camera needs to track and focus quickly. Older cameras with slower AF systems struggle with wildlife.

High ISO performance helps because wildlife is often active at dawn/dusk when light is dim, and you’re shooting at telephoto focal lengths that require fast shutter speeds.

A sturdy tripod or monopod helps stabilize long lenses. Handholding a 600mm lens gets tiring and results in camera shake.

Finding Wildlife

National parks and reserves concentrate wildlife. But even suburban backyards attract birds and small mammals if you create the right environment.

Early morning and late afternoon are most active times. Many Australian animals are crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk) or nocturnal.

Water sources attract wildlife, particularly in dry periods. Dams, creeks, waterholes are reliable spots to wait.

Learn animal behavior and patterns. Kangaroos graze in the same areas. Birds return to favored perches. Knowing where animals will be saves time wandering randomly.

Local knowledge helps enormously. Ask rangers, locals, or join photography groups focused on specific locations. People share information about where specific species have been seen.

Wildlife corridors and habitat edges are productive. Animals move between habitats, and edges between forest and grassland, or wetland and woodland, concentrate activity.

Camera Settings for Wildlife

Shutter priority mode works well. Set a fast shutter speed (1/1000 or faster for most subjects, 1/2000+ for birds in flight), let the camera choose aperture, use auto ISO.

Continuous autofocus (AF-C or AI Servo) is essential. Single-shot AF doesn’t work when subjects move.

Burst mode maximizes your chances of catching peak moments. Birds blink, animals turn their heads, expressions change constantly.

Back-button focus separates focusing from shutter release. This gives you more control over when the camera refocuses versus when it takes the photo.

Exposure can be tricky with wildlife. A dark animal (black cockatoo) against bright sky confuses the camera. Use exposure compensation or spot metering to ensure your subject is properly exposed.

Ethical Wildlife Photography

Don’t disturb animals. If they change behavior because of your presence (moving away, becoming agitated, stopping natural activities), you’re too close or too intrusive.

Never feed wildlife to attract them. This habituates animals to humans, changes natural behavior, and can harm their health.

Don’t use playback of animal calls to attract birds. This stresses them, particularly during breeding season.

Respect nesting sites and denning areas. Keep distance during breeding seasons when animals are particularly vulnerable.

Don’t share specific locations of rare or endangered species. This can lead to harmful crowding by other photographers.

Use vehicles as blinds where possible. Many Australian animals tolerate cars but flee from humans on foot. Shoot from your car window with the engine off.

Specific Australian Wildlife Tips

Kangaroos and wallabies: Best photographed at golden hour when they’re actively feeding. Approach slowly and avoid direct eye contact (they perceive this as threat). Crouch to get lower angles rather than shooting down at them.

Birds: Garden birds visit regularly if you provide water and native plants. Set up near a water source and wait. For shorebirds and waterbirds, use natural cover or a portable blind.

Koalas: Usually sleeping in trees. Photograph from below using telephoto lenses. They’re most active in early morning and evening when they move between trees.

Wombats: Nocturnal, so challenging. Best photographed near burrow entrances at dusk. They’re surprisingly fast when startled, so keep distance.

Echidnas: Slow-moving, so easier to photograph. But respect them, they’re shy. Low angles show their features better than top-down shots.

Reptiles: Basking lizards and snakes are more approachable in cooler weather when they’re sluggish. Never handle venomous snakes. Use long lenses.

Marine life: Underwater photography requires specialized equipment (housings) or simple waterproof cameras. Snorkeling spots like the Great Barrier Reef, Ningaloo, and various marine parks offer incredible opportunities.

Composition for Wildlife

Eye contact and sharpness on the eyes is critical. If the eyes aren’t sharp, the photo fails. Focus precisely on the eyes.

Get low. Shooting from the animal’s eye level is more engaging than shooting down at them from standing human height.

Leave space in the direction the animal is looking or moving. This creates visual flow and feels more natural.

Include environmental context when possible. An animal in its habitat tells a better story than an isolated subject.

Look for behavior and interaction. Animals doing things (feeding, grooming, playing, fighting) are more interesting than animals just sitting.

Clean backgrounds make subjects stand out. Wide apertures (f/4-5.6 with telephoto lenses) blur distracting backgrounds.

Light for Wildlife

Golden hour light is flattering for wildlife just like it is for landscapes. Warm, directional, creates dimension.

Overcast days work well for forest wildlife. The diffused light reduces contrast and prevents harsh shadows.

Backlight can be beautiful for rim-lit effects, particularly with fur or feathers catching the light.

Avoid harsh midday sun when possible. It creates unflattering shadows and squinting animals.

Patience Is Everything

Wildlife photography requires waiting. You might spend hours for a few minutes of good photo opportunities.

Stake out a location and let animals come to you rather than chasing them. They’ll return to normal behavior once they forget you’re there.

Visit the same locations repeatedly. Familiarity helps you predict where animals will appear and when.

Some of my best wildlife photos came from sessions where I saw nothing for 90 minutes, then had ten minutes of incredible activity.

Australian Wildlife Hotspots

Kangaroo Island, SA: Kangaroos, wallabies, seals, sea lions, diverse birdlife.

Kakadu, NT: Crocodiles, diverse birdlife, wetland species.

Tasmania: Tasmanian devils (at sanctuaries), wombats, pademelons, platypus.

Great Barrier Reef / Ningaloo Reef: Tropical fish, sea turtles, manta rays, whale sharks (seasonally).

Flinders Ranges, SA: Rock wallabies, emus, diverse bird species.

Lamington National Park, QLD: Rainforest birds, including parrots and bowerbirds.

Great Ocean Road, VIC: Coastal birds, whales (during migration season), fur seals at various colonies.

Blue Mountains, NSW: Lyrebirds, various parrots, wallabies.

Processing Wildlife Photos

Wildlife photos often benefit from:

Sharpening to bring out feather and fur detail. Noise reduction if shooting at high ISOs. Slightly increased contrast and clarity. Eye brightening to make eyes more prominent. Cropping to improve composition or remove distracting elements.

Don’t overprocess. Wildlife photos should look natural, not over-saturated or over-sharpened.

Legal Considerations

Many Australian wildlife species are protected. Disturbing, harassing, or harming them is illegal.

National parks and reserves have regulations about where you can go and what you can do. Follow them.

Some areas require photography permits for commercial work. Check before shooting if you plan to sell images.

Aboriginal land may require permits for photography. Respect cultural sites and traditional ownership.

When Wildlife Photography Doesn’t Work

Not every outing produces great photos. Wildlife is unpredictable. Animals don’t show up, weather doesn’t cooperate, light is wrong.

Accept that many attempts yield nothing. This is normal. The occasional exceptional wildlife photo makes it worthwhile.

Bad days teach you about animal behavior and location. Information that helps future sessions be more successful.

The Joy of Australian Wildlife

Australia’s wildlife is unique. Many species exist nowhere else. Photographing them connects you to landscapes and ecosystems in ways other photography doesn’t.

There’s genuine magic in watching a lyrebird perform its mimicry, or seeing a platypus surface in a creek, or watching wedge-tailed eagles soar. Whether or not you get the perfect photo, these experiences matter.

Approach wildlife photography with respect, patience, and ethics. The animals were here first. We’re visitors in their world. Photography should document and celebrate them, not disturb or endanger them.

Do it right, and Australian wildlife photography is endlessly rewarding. Our animals deserve to be photographed beautifully and respectfully. You can do both.