The used camera market in Australia is excellent right now. Facebook Marketplace, Gumtree, eBay, and camera store trade-in sections are full of quality equipment at prices that make new gear look overpriced.

I’ve bought dozens of used cameras and lenses over the years. Some have been brilliant purchases. A few have been expensive lessons. Here’s how to avoid the mistakes I made.

Where to Buy Used Camera Gear

Facebook Marketplace is active and local. You can meet sellers in person, inspect equipment before buying, and negotiate. The downside is minimal buyer protection and lots of time-wasters.

Gumtree is similar to Facebook Marketplace. Lots of private sellers, meet-in-person transactions, minimal protection.

eBay offers buyer protection through PayPal and eBay’s systems. The downside is you can’t inspect equipment before buying, and you’re competing with other bidders or paying fixed prices that are sometimes optimistic.

Camera store used sections (Camera House, CameraPro, DigiDirect) offer tested equipment with warranties (usually 3-6 months). Prices are higher than private sellers but the peace of mind is worth something.

Photography forums and Facebook groups have classified sections. These communities police themselves reasonably well, and serious photographers tend to maintain their gear better than casual users.

Reddit’s r/photomarket has Australian sellers occasionally, though it’s more active in the US.

Cameras: What to Check

Shutter count is critical for DSLRs. Camera shutters are mechanical and rated for a certain number of actuations (typically 100,000-300,000 depending on camera tier). A camera with 150,000 actuations on a 150,000-rated shutter is near end of life.

Check shutter count by uploading a recent photo from the camera to websites like camerashuttercount.com or using software like ExifTool.

Mirrorless cameras have electronic shutters with essentially unlimited life, but they still have mechanical shutters for certain shooting modes. Check the mechanical shutter count if available.

Physical condition matters. Small cosmetic wear is normal and doesn’t affect performance. Deep scratches, dents, or cracks suggest the camera was dropped or mishandled. Check around the lens mount particularly carefully.

Test all buttons, dials, and switches. Does the mode dial click firmly? Do all buttons respond? Does the rear screen articulate smoothly?

Check the sensor for dust or damage. Set the camera to aperture priority at f/16, photograph a blank white surface or clear blue sky. Review the image at 100% zoom. Dark spots indicate sensor dust (cleanable). Bright spots or weird artifacts might indicate sensor damage (expensive repair).

Test autofocus. In a well-lit area, focus on a target at various distances. Does the camera focus quickly and accurately? Does it hunt or fail to lock focus?

Check for moisture damage. Look inside the battery compartment, memory card slot, and around buttons for corrosion, discoloration, or white residue. Moisture damage can cause ongoing problems even after drying.

Battery health: Original batteries hold charge better than old batteries. If possible, check how many shots the battery lasts. If it’s significantly below the camera’s rated battery life, factor in the cost of a new battery ($50-100).

Lenses: What to Check

Glass condition is everything. Look through the lens from both ends toward a light source. Any scratches, haze, or cloudiness in the glass? Minor dust inside is normal and doesn’t affect image quality. Fungus (looks like little spiderwebs) is a deal-breaker.

Check the autofocus. Mount the lens on a camera (bring yours, or ask to test on the seller’s camera). Does it focus smoothly and accurately? Does the autofocus motor make weird grinding sounds?

Test the aperture. In aperture priority mode, shoot at various apertures while looking at a bright, even subject (sky, white wall). Does the aperture close down smoothly? Any jerky or incomplete closing indicates aperture mechanism problems.

Check for optical issues. Shoot a white wall or sky at f/8. Look for dark edges (excessive vignetting), soft corners, or chromatic aberration (purple/green fringing). Some of this is normal, but excessive amounts suggest a problem lens.

Check the lens mount. Are the electrical contacts clean? Is the mount itself scratched or worn? Does the lens mount securely on the camera body without wobble?

Zoom and focus rings should move smoothly with appropriate resistance. Loose or sticky rings indicate wear or damage.

Image stabilization (if present) should activate smoothly without clicking or grinding sounds.

Pricing: What’s Fair?

A good rule of thumb: Used cameras and lenses sell for roughly 50-70% of new retail price, depending on age and condition.

A current-model camera in excellent condition: 70-80% of new price. Previous generation (1-2 years old): 50-60% of original price. Older models (3+ years): 40-50% or less.

Check current new prices before buying. Sometimes retailers discount new stock so heavily that used prices aren’t much of a saving.

Factor in wear. A well-used camera with high shutter count or visible wear should be priced lower than an barely-used example.

Include accessories in value assessment. Original box, manual, charger, strap, extra batteries add value.

Red Flags to Avoid

Prices way below market value. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Stolen equipment, defective gear being dumped, or outright scams.

Sellers who won’t meet in person (for local sales) or won’t provide additional photos. Legitimate sellers understand buyers need to verify equipment.

Equipment described as “untested” or “condition unknown.” This usually means “broken but I’m hoping someone buys it anyway.”

Water damage disclosed in listings. Even if it’s “working now,” moisture damage causes ongoing problems. Avoid unless the price reflects the risk.

Modified or repaired equipment without documentation. Professional repairs are fine if you have receipts. DIY repairs or unclear repair history is risky.

Multiple items being sold by someone who isn’t clearly a photographer. Could be a reseller, or could be selling stolen equipment.

Negotiating

Private sellers usually expect negotiation. Reasonable offers 10-15% below asking price are normal. Lowballing wastes everyone’s time.

Point out specific issues to justify your offer. “I noticed there’s dust on the sensor and the shutter count is quite high. Would you consider $X?”

Be prepared to walk away. There’s always another deal. Don’t get emotionally attached to specific equipment.

Cash talks. Sellers often prefer cash because it’s immediate and certain. Offering cash might get you a better price.

Meeting Safely for In-Person Transactions

Meet in public places. Coffee shops, shopping center car parks, police stations (some explicitly welcome this).

Bring a friend if buying expensive equipment. Two people are safer than one.

Bring a camera body to test lenses, or a lens to test camera bodies. Sellers should expect and accommodate testing.

Take your time inspecting. Don’t let sellers rush you. If they’re legitimate, they’ll wait while you check the equipment thoroughly.

Buying Online (eBay, Forums)

Request additional photos showing serial numbers, condition details, and the equipment powered on.

Check seller feedback/history. High feedback scores and long account histories suggest legitimate sellers.

Use PayPal Goods and Services for payment protection. Never use bank transfer or PayPal Friends and Family for strangers.

Read descriptions carefully. Understand return policies and who pays return shipping.

Factor in shipping costs and insurance. A cheap listing isn’t cheap if shipping adds $50.

Camera Store Used Equipment

Prices are higher but you get:

Equipment tested by people who know cameras. Short warranties (usually 3-6 months) that cover defects. Return policies if something is wrong. Peace of mind.

For expensive equipment or if you’re not confident inspecting gear yourself, the premium is worth it.

What to Buy Used vs New

Great to buy used: Camera bodies (technology dates quickly, used prices drop fast). High-end lenses (they last decades and hold value). Accessories like tripods, bags, flashes.

Consider buying new: Budget lenses (used prices aren’t much cheaper). Memory cards (reliability matters and new cards are cheap). Batteries (old batteries lose capacity).

Avoid used: Cheap gear that wasn’t expensive new. Saving $30 on an already-cheap product isn’t worth the risk.

My Personal Used Buying Rules

I never buy used equipment I can’t test in person for anything over $500. For expensive purchases, seeing and handling the equipment is essential.

I walk away from any transaction that feels wrong. Trust your instincts. If the seller is evasive, pushy, or the situation feels off, don’t proceed.

I assume used equipment has some level of wear. Perfect condition equipment is rare and commands premium prices. Accept minor cosmetic wear as normal.

I research thoroughly before buying. Know what the equipment is worth, what common problems exist, and what to check for.

I budget for potential issues. If buying a used camera, I might discover it needs sensor cleaning ($80) or a new battery ($100). Factor this into your total cost.

The Value of Used Equipment

Buying used lets you access equipment that would be unaffordable new. A $3000 camera from two years ago might be $1500 used. Professionally, it’s identical to the new version for most work.

High-quality lenses hold value remarkably well. A used $1500 lens might sell for $1200. Use it for two years and sell it for $1000. Your actual cost was $200.

Photography is expensive. Buying used strategically lets you build a better kit for the same budget.

Just be smart about it. Check thoroughly, know the market, trust your instincts, and don’t rush. The right deal will come along.